Surfing at Sixty

Bolsa Chica 20130924

Soul Surfer

Surfing Since 1960

While out surfing today, looking out at the vast ocean I thought; how can I fit the ocean into a cup?

Is it possible to confine such an enormous body of water into a cup made with human hands?

Surfing as a soul surfer becomes a connection between the surfer and the ocean, becoming one with nature.

It’s almost if you can imagine like having sex. The more mechanical sex is the less enjoyable sex becomes. The more one lets go of thought and is in the moment the more enjoyable sex becomes.

That’s why some surfers will tell you surfing is better than sex. They experience the Zen moment in the water by letting go of everyday busy thoughts and become one with nature.

RRiedell 295

Surfing is not a sport as some would argue; it is a way of life. Surfers are a tribe of watermen who respect nature and never take more then they need. Real surfers have knowledge of themselves and only seek the divine presence.

Material things are of no use outside a 9’0 and a means to the ocean.

Brother Ron’s Quiver has a 9’0/ 6’2/7’6/5’7/5’2/5’5 and nine retired boards.
I travel light and use rubber only when I have to.



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